Nasi Liwet Recipe: Indonesian Coconut Rice Cooked Banana-Leaf Style

Nasi liwet is one of Indonesia's great rice dishes: jasmine rice cooked not in plain water but in coconut milk, infused with lemongrass, Indonesian bay leaves (salam), and salty little anchovies until every grain glistens and smells like heaven. Traditionally it is cooked in a clay pot over a wood fire and served communally on a banana leaf — this nasi liwet recipe brings all of that flavor to a regular stovetop pot.

The dish comes from the Sundanese kitchen of West Java, where "liwet" describes this style of slow-cooking rice with coconut milk and aromatics. The anchovies melt into the rice as it cooks, giving a deep savory backbone that makes the dish satisfying even before the side dishes arrive — fried chicken, sambal, cucumber, and crispy fried shallots are the classic companions.

This version is weeknight-friendly: one pot, about 45 minutes, and no banana leaf required (though serving on one makes it spectacular). If you've only ever had plain steamed rice, this is the upgrade you didn't know you needed.

Fragrant coconut rice, served the traditional way.

Recipe Info

• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Cook time: 30 minutes
• Total time: 45 minutes
• Servings: 4 as a main with sides
• Calories: ~460 kcal per serving (rice only)

Ingredients

• 400 g / 2 cups jasmine rice, rinsed until the water runs mostly clear
• 240 ml / 1 cup coconut milk (about ⅔ of a 400 ml / 14 oz can), well shaken
• 240 ml / 1 cup water
• 2 stalks lemongrass, outer layers removed, bruised and tied in a knot
• 4 Indonesian bay leaves (daun salam); regular bay leaves work as a substitute
• 6 shallots, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 50 g / ⅓ cup dried anchovies (teri medan or any small dried anchovies), rinsed
• 5 red bird's eye chilies, left whole
• 1½ tsp fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1 tbsp neutral oil (for blooming the aromatics)
• To serve (optional but traditional): fried or grilled chicken, sambal terasi, sliced cucumber, and crispy fried shallots (bawang goreng)

Every grain glistens with coconut milk.

Instructions

1. Rinse the rice: Place the jasmine rice in a bowl, cover with cold water, swirl, and drain. Repeat 3–4 times until the water runs mostly clear, then drain well. This removes excess surface starch so the grains stay separate and fluffy.
2. Bloom the aromatics: Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or rice cooker pot over medium heat. Add the sliced shallots, garlic, dried anchovies, and whole chilies. Stir-fry 3–4 minutes until the shallots are soft and golden at the edges and the anchovies smell toasty — this step wakes up all the flavors before the rice goes in.
3. Add the rice and liquids: Add the drained rice and stir for 1 minute to coat the grains in the aromatic oil. Pour in the coconut milk and water, add the lemongrass, bay leaves, and salt, and stir once to combine.
4. Cook the rice: Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, then immediately reduce to the lowest heat, cover tightly, and simmer 15 minutes. Do not lift the lid — the steam is doing the work.
5. Rest the rice: Turn off the heat and let the pot stand, still covered, for 10 minutes. This resting step finishes the cooking gently and lets the grains firm up so they don't turn mushy when fluffed.
6. Fluff and finish: Remove the lid, take out the lemongrass stalks and bay leaves (and the whole chilies if you like), and fluff the rice gently with a fork or rice paddle. Taste and adjust salt — the anchovies vary in saltiness, so this is the moment to balance it.
7. Serve banana-leaf style: Spread a clean banana leaf (or a large platter) on the table, mound the rice in the center, and arrange the side dishes around it — fried chicken, sambal, cucumber slices, and a generous shower of crispy fried shallots. Everyone serves themselves, Sundanese-style.

The rice-to-liquid ratio here is 1 : 1.2 — 400 g of rice to 480 ml of combined coconut milk and water. Coconut milk is thicker than water, so a little extra liquid keeps the grains tender without going soggy. If your rice is older and drier, add an extra 2–3 tablespoons of water; if it's very fresh, hold back a tablespoon or two.

Dried anchovies are the soul of liwet but they vary wildly in saltiness. Rinse them first to wash off excess salt and sand, and always taste the finished rice before adding more salt. If you can't find dried anchovies, 2–3 anchovy fillets from a tin (mashed into the oil) or even 1 tablespoon of shrimp paste (terasi) bloomed with the shallots will give you that savory depth.

The aromatics that make it liwet.

Tips & Variations

• Don't skip the rinsing. Unrinsed jasmine rice releases too much starch into the coconut milk and turns the dish gummy. Three or four rinses is the sweet spot — you don't need perfectly clear water.
• Bruise the lemongrass: Smashing the stalks with the flat of a knife ruptures the fibers so they release far more fragrance. Tying them in a knot keeps them easy to fish out later.
• Rice cooker method: Do steps 1–3 in a pan, transfer everything to a rice cooker, and cook on the regular white-rice setting. Rest 10 minutes after it clicks, then fluff. Foolproof.
• The crispy bottom (kerak): Traditionally, liwet develops a prized crispy rice crust at the bottom of the pot. After the 10-minute rest, return the covered pot to medium heat for 3–4 minutes — you'll hear it crackle. That kerak is the cook's reward.
• Anchovy alternatives: No dried anchovies? Use mashed tinned anchovies, shrimp paste, or even crispy fried shallots alone for a vegetarian version — just add an extra ½ teaspoon of salt.
• Make it a complete meal: The classic Sundanese spread is nasi liwet + ayam goreng (fried chicken) + sambal terasi + lalapan (raw vegetables like cucumber, cabbage, and basil). Pick two or three and it's a feast.
• Spice control: The whole chilies perfume the rice gently; biting into one is optional and fiery. For a milder version, use 2 chilies; for heat lovers, slice 2–3 into the pot.
• Storing and reheating: Refrigerate leftover rice up to 3 days. Reheat with a splash of water in a covered pan or microwave — the coconut milk keeps it from drying out. It also fries beautifully the next day as nasi goreng liwet.
• Banana leaf serving: Wipe the leaf clean, then pass it quickly over a gas flame or pour hot water over it — this makes it pliable, glossy, and releases its grassy aroma. It turns dinner into an occasion.

Nutrition Note

This is an approximate guide only, not dietary advice. One serving of the rice alone (¼ of the recipe) contains roughly 460 kcal, 9 g protein, 68 g carbohydrates, and 16 g fat — most of it from the coconut milk, which provides medium-chain fatty acids. Jasmine rice supplies energy-giving carbs; the anchovies add calcium and savory umami. The dish is naturally gluten-free and dairy-free. Sodium depends heavily on the anchovies, so taste before adding extra salt.

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FAQ

What is nasi liwet?

Nasi liwet is a Sundanese (West Javanese) dish of jasmine rice cooked in coconut milk with lemongrass, Indonesian bay leaves (salam), shallots, garlic, chilies, and dried anchovies. It's traditionally cooked slowly in a clay pot and served communally on a banana leaf with fried chicken, sambal, and fresh vegetables.

Can I make nasi liwet in a rice cooker?

Absolutely — it's arguably easier. Bloom the aromatics in a pan first (steps 1–2), transfer everything to the rice cooker with the rice and liquids, and run the regular white-rice cycle. Let it rest 10 minutes after it finishes, then fluff. The flavor is identical.

What can I use instead of dried anchovies?

Mashed tinned anchovy fillets, a tablespoon of shrimp paste (terasi) bloomed with the shallots, or — for a vegetarian version — skip the fish entirely and lean on extra crispy fried shallots plus a little more salt. Each gives a different but delicious savory depth.

Is nasi liwet the same as nasi uduk?

They're cousins, not twins. Both are coconut-milk rice, but nasi uduk (Betawi/Jakarta style) is simpler — usually just coconut milk, lemongrass, bay leaves, and pandan — while nasi liwet (Sundanese) includes the anchovies, shallots, garlic, and chilies cooked into the rice, plus the traditional banana-leaf communal serving.

Why is my nasi liwet mushy?

Three usual suspects: the rice wasn't rinsed (excess starch), too much liquid (stick to the 1 : 1.2 rice-to-liquid ratio), or the lid was lifted during cooking (lost steam means uneven cooking). Also, always rest the rice 10 minutes off the heat before fluffing — it firms the grains up.

Fragrant, glistening, and deeply savory — nasi liwet turns an ordinary rice night into a Sundanese feast. What would you serve alongside it: fried chicken, sambal, or both? Tell us in the comments and save this recipe for your next Indonesian dinner!